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  • davidj replied to the topic Strange fault in Technical - MG6
    I don't have a TL, or even a diesel but thinking about your problem - could the knock/bang be from the electronic handbrake? I have known pads to stick to disks in winter and release with a bang/knock but not until the car starts to move, but again I have not got the electronic handbrake.

    Most MG6 electrical problems seem to come down to a bad earth.
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  • davidj replied to the topic MG6 Emergency key in Technical - MG6
    There should be an emergency key inside each of your fobs, just slide the tops off, or do you mean they have been removed & lost? 
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  • Petrol fuel filter - leak
    Don't blame MG, the Chinese, the car or even the fuel filter, it is item 35 on the service sheet and should be replaced every 30k miles or 2 years. Blame whoever did the previous services on the car as it should be on its third filter by now!
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  • Lumpy tickover in your MG6?
    Sorry I don't have a part number, but it is a common part to all MG Rover K series engines.

    Just to add my MG6 will go over the 100,000 mile mark this week :0. It still looks and runs great :).
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  • New to MG6, various problems....
    I made suggestions for 1 & 2 on your earlier posts, with regard to 3 the original aerials were replaced on many MG6 as the powered amplifier in the aerial base failed. If you antenna unscrews you have the earlier (fault prone) one. The replacement on mine has been good for over 5 years now. I seem to remember they are not too expensive from Brown & Gammon or any other MG dealership. The headline can be dropped at the rear hatch to gain access to the mounting bolt and power/coax connections. IainS posted fitting instructions some time back but I cant find it right now.

    I have no experience of 4 but could it be related to the antenna fault? I have no idea where the GPS aerial is but don't remember seeing a separate connection on the back of the radio when I removed it.

    With regard 5 the select button on mine require a firm push in the center - if I am off it doesn't respond. Been like it from new.
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  • How do you gain access to ignition start dock?
    You could try removing the radio, the slim panel underneath it pulls off then two screws can be removed and the radio pulls out. The dock appears to have one screw mount at top and two on the bottom at the corners. Must be screwed in from behind. With the Radio removed you may be able to get access to the screws.
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  • Vehicle will not start
    Any grease will do the job, use some Emery cloth to clean the terminal first.

    I did this to mine middle of June last year and it has not reoccurred since.
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  • Sat Nav SD Card Registration
    Seem to remember reading that calling here maps directly has resulted in success for some.
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  • davidj created a new forum post in Technical - MG6
    A while back my door window started to "squeal" when lowered or raised. It was suggested to me it was the rubber drying out and to use a silicone spray in the window channels. Well it wasn't that, turned out to be corrosion on one of the mechanism cables. Eventually it snapped leaving me with a window that would not stay up.

    I got a quote from an MG dealer for repairs and it came in at just shy of £300, £180 for a replacement "regulator" and 1 & 1/2 hours labour. My initial reaction was to just prop the window up and leave it at that!

    A MG6 turned up at a local breakers so I enquired about a replacement regulator, but they wanted the same price as a new one from the main dealer but they were only offering a 30 day warranty - go figure!! After a number of phone calls and some hard negotiation they called me up as they had softened the price to £100, but not untill after I had placed a deposit on one some 80 miles away GRRRR.

    I collected the used part from the breakers and it was in nice condition with no corrosion, an assurance it was fully functional and had a 12 month warranty. I also purchased some Silverline trim tools to assist in the job from ebay for £6.95 delivered

    Door strip down is straight forward, prise off the silver cover on the door handle (trim removal tool needed here to prevent cosmetic damage) and remove the two screws underneath. Another screw behind the pull handle and one in the top back of the door cap (sits in the door jam when closed). Using the Trim removal tools the cheater on the inside of the mirror and door card came away cleanly without any of the poppers breaking. Next tape the window up so it cant fall down and lift the door card from the door. Taking care to unplug the door switch pack, two cables, tweeter & main speaker. The door pull handle has a cable that unclips from the back and the door card can then be lifted clear. The door speaker then needs to be removed.

    The weather shield is a polystyrene type membrane stuck on with a silicone type adhesive (that is still sticky at 6 years old). If you try to peal it away the membrane will tear, so use a knife to cut the sealant and work your way around the door, no need to take it off at the bottom just fold/roll it out of the way.

    Next is the removal of the regulator mechanism, basically everything that operates the window bar the glass. A 10mm socket with short extension is now needed, unbolt the two glass clamps through the access holes near the top of the door, then the right hand runner which has 2 bolts one top and one bottom. The left hand runner has one top bolt and three at the bottom (which also secures the motor). Disconnect the lead from the motor and lift/fold the entire mechanism out of the door.

    Re-Fit of the replacement is the above in reverse, taking care to ensure the glass is in the rubber lined clamps. This bit took me a bit of wrestling but with some effort it went in and lined up OK, you cant go wrong with alignment as the bolts all have a defined position. With all the bolts tightened up and switch pack & motor connected I tested the window with GREAT success and following a victory dance I rebuilt the door checking at every opportunity that things were working as they should. The membrame was pushed in position and just stuck itself back down. The door card drops in from the top and then slap it all the way around to secure the poppers.

    Upon completion I had saved myself over £200 and had a perfect working drivers door window again. No need to be affraid of this task, I work in IT and am not a spanner type!

    Tools needed

    10mm socket with short extension
    Philips screw driver
    Trim removal tools (optional but reccomended)
    Swiss army knife (to cut the membrane sealant and remove the plugs over the pull handle screw and back of door capping(in door jam).
    A second pair of hands is usefull when removing and refitting the door card to ensure you do not damage any of the electrical connections.

    I didn't take photos but it is all pretty obvious once you have the silver trim on the handle off (pry it from the top with an angled trim removal tool), just go carefully and don't force anything.

    It's not a race but only took me 10 minutes longer than the main dealer wanted paying for and I went at it with no previous experience of this job.
    A while back my door window started to "squeal" when lowered or raised. It was suggested to me it was the rubber drying out and to use a silicone spray in the window channels. Well it wasn't that, turned out to be corrosion on one of the mechanism cables. Eventually it snapped leaving me with a window that would not stay up.

    I got a quote from an MG dealer for repairs and it came in at just shy of £300, £180 for a replacement "regulator" and 1 & 1/2 hours labour. My initial reaction was to just prop the window up and leave it at that!

    A MG6 turned up at a local breakers so I enquired about a replacement regulator, but they wanted the same price as a new one from the main dealer but they were only offering a 30 day warranty - go figure!! After a number of phone calls and some hard negotiation they called me up as they had softened the price to £100, but not untill after I had placed a deposit on one some 80 miles away GRRRR.

    I collected the used part from the breakers and it was in nice condition with no corrosion, an assurance it was fully functional and had a 12 month warranty. I also purchased some Silverline trim tools to assist in the job from ebay for £6.95 delivered

    Door strip down is straight forward, prise off the silver cover on the door handle (trim removal tool needed here to prevent cosmetic damage) and remove the two screws underneath. Another screw behind the pull handle and one in the top back of the door cap (sits in the door jam when closed). Using the Trim removal tools the cheater on the inside of the mirror and door card came away cleanly without any of the poppers breaking. Next tape the window up so it cant fall down and lift the door card from the door. Taking care to unplug the door switch pack, two cables, tweeter & main speaker. The door pull handle has a cable that unclips from the back and the door card can then be lifted clear. The door speaker then needs to be removed.

    The weather shield is a polystyrene type membrane stuck on with a silicone type adhesive (that is still sticky at 6 years old). If you try to peal it away the membrane will tear, so use a knife to cut the sealant and work your way around the door, no need to take it off at the bottom just fold/roll it out of the way.

    Next is the removal of the regulator mechanism, basically everything that operates the window bar the glass. A 10mm socket with short extension is now needed, unbolt the two glass clamps through the access holes near the top of the door, then the right hand runner which has 2 bolts one top and one bottom. The left hand runner has one top bolt and three at the bottom (which also secures the motor). Disconnect the lead from the motor and lift/fold the entire mechanism out of the door.

    Re-Fit of the replacement is the above in reverse, taking care to ensure the glass is in the rubber lined clamps. This bit took me a bit of wrestling but with some effort it went in and lined up OK, you cant go wrong with alignment as the bolts all have a defined position. With all the bolts tightened up and switch pack & motor connected I tested the window with GREAT success and following a victory dance I rebuilt the door checking at every opportunity that things were working as they should. The membrame was pushed in position and just stuck itself back down. The door card drops in from the top and then slap it all the way around to secure the poppers.

    Upon completion I had saved myself over £200 and had a perfect working drivers door window again. No need to be affraid of this task, I work in IT and am not a spanner type!

    Tools needed

    10mm socket with short extension
    Philips screw driver
    Trim removal tools (optional but reccomended)
    Swiss army knife :) (to cut the membrane sealant and remove the plugs over the pull handle screw and back of door capping(in door jam).
    A second pair of hands is usefull when removing and refitting the door card to ensure you do not damage any of the electrical connections.

    I didn't take photos but it is all pretty obvious once you have the silver trim on the handle off ;) (pry it from the top with an angled trim removal tool), just go carefully and don't force anything.

    It's not a race but only took me 10 minutes longer than the main dealer wanted paying for and I went at it with no previous experience of this job.
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  • Vehicle will not start
    Good stuff Joe :). Make sure you get that connector cleaned up and protected from further corrosion with some grease, otherwise it will happen again and next time you might not have a Pete on hand ;).
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